把标志性的塑料袋变成高级时尚

2020-11-19 11:31

In pictures: Turning the iconic Ghana Must Go bag into high fashion I7D世界播

图片:将标志性的加纳包包变成高级时尚。I7D世界播


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Nigerian photographer Obinna Obioma is using creative ways to display an iconic West African plastic bag to reflect on migration. I7D世界播

尼日利亚摄影师奥比纳·奥比奥马正在用创造性的方式展示一个标志性的西非塑料袋,以反映移民问题。I7D世界播


Recognised around the world in either its blue-white and red-white varieties, this once-nameless bag has long been especially popular in markets across West Africa. I7D世界播

这种曾经无名的手袋在世界各地的蓝白色和红白色品种中都有知名度,长期以来在西非的市场上特别受欢迎。I7D世界播


But when in the 1980s hundreds of thousands of undocumented immigrants, most of them Ghanaians, hurriedly stuffed their belongings into them after being given short notice to leave Nigeria, it became known as Ghana Must Go. I7D世界播

但在20世纪80年代,数十万非法移民,其中大多数是加纳人,在接到离开尼日利亚的短时间通知后,匆忙将自己的财物塞进他们的行李中,这就成了人们所熟知的加纳必须离开。I7D世界播


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Easily foldable to fit inside the pocket and with an uncanny ability to manufacture an extra inch of space for one more item, the bag was favoured by the desperately departing Ghanaians. I7D世界播

这个包很容易折叠,可以放进口袋里,而且有一种不可思议的能力,可以多出一英寸的空间来再放一件东西,这款包受到了绝望的加纳人的青睐。I7D世界播


Since then, no-one has asked to be given "that woven matted bag" at the market, they just ask for a Ghana Must Go - a phrase that is also used in Ghana, despite the painful memories it stirs for some. I7D世界播

从那以后,没有人在市场上要求得到“编织的垫子包”,他们只是要求加纳必须离开--这个短语在加纳也被使用,尽管它激起了一些人的痛苦回忆。I7D世界播


"I remember questioning my parents and other older relatives about the origin of the bags as I found it to have an interesting name," said Obinna, who is based in New York. I7D世界播

住在纽约的奥宾娜说:“我记得我问过我的父母和其他年长的亲戚这些袋子的由来,因为我发现它有一个有趣的名字。”I7D世界播


In Anyi N'Aga (Igbo for We Are Going), he reflects on how the bags have transcended their courier status and are used as a personified symbol of migration - "being used to carry not just belongings but also culture, heritage and memories", he said. I7D世界播

在Anyi N‘aga(我们要去的IGBO)中,他反思了袋子是如何超越了它们的快递身份,被用作移民的人格化象征-“不仅被用来携带财物,也被用来携带文化、遗产和记忆”,他说。I7D世界播


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Teaming up with Chioma Obiegbu, a Nigerian visual artist and designer also based in New York and fashion stylist Wuraola Oladapo, they create pieces which Obinna describes as a fusion of both western and African designs. I7D世界播

他们与同样居住在纽约的尼日利亚视觉艺术家和设计师基奥马·奥比格布(Chioma Obiegbu)以及时尚造型师乌拉奥拉·奥拉博(Wuraola OlAdapo)合作,创作出奥宾纳所说的西方和非洲设计的融合。I7D世界播


"In some of the two-piece designs, the top is heavily influenced by western fashion aesthetics while the skirt was designed to mirror a West African wrapper. I7D世界播

在一些两件式的设计中,上衣深受西方时尚美学的影响,而裙子则是为了模仿西非的包装而设计的。I7D世界播


"There's also a gele [headpiece] which is traditionally identified as an African fashion statement," he said. I7D世界播

他说:“还有一种传统上被认为是非洲时尚宣言的明胶(头饰)。”I7D世界播


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"The bags connote migration not as a word to describe travel but as an actual living thing - with each border crossed - [a migrant] takes something new and leaves something behind," Obinna said. I7D世界播

奥宾纳说:“这些袋子不是用来形容旅行的一个词,而是一种真实的生物--每过一次边境,(移民)就会带走一些新的东西,也会留下一些东西。”I7D世界播


Born in Nigeria, he was first introduced to photography by his enthusiast father who took pictures at family outings and birthdays. I7D世界播

他出生于尼日利亚,第一次接触摄影是由他的狂热父亲介绍给他的,父亲在家庭郊游和生日时拍照。I7D世界播


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But it was from his mother that he received his first camera after returning home from schooling in the UK and he credits his style of conceptual, portraiture and narrative photography to those formative years abroad. I7D世界播

但他从英国上学回家后收到的第一台相机是从母亲那里得到的,他将自己的概念摄影、肖像摄影和叙事摄影风格归功于那些在国外成长的岁月。I7D世界播


"I have found myself using photography to explore the human condition. Particularly issues pertaining to identity, culture and African heritage," he said. I7D世界播

他说:“我发现自己在用摄影来探索人类的状况。特别是关于身份、文化和非洲遗产的问题。”I7D世界播


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The Ghana Must Go bag has come a long way, including a ban imposed in 2017 by KLM and Air France, who said it could unravel and so clog up baggage delivery systems. I7D世界播

加纳必去袋已经走过了很长一段路,包括荷兰皇家航空公司(KLM)和法国航空公司(Air France)在2017年实施的一项禁令,这两家公司表示,它可能会解体,从而堵塞行李递送系统。I7D世界播


The ban still remains despite protest at the time by Ghana authorities who described it as "not only insulting but smacking of racism and discrimination", given that the bag was commonly used by African travellers. I7D世界播

尽管加纳当局当时表示抗议,但这项禁令仍然存在。加纳当局称,考虑到这个包是非洲游客经常使用的,它“不仅具有侮辱性,而且带有种族主义和歧视的味道”。I7D世界播


The bag is also associated in Nigeria with being used by corrupt politicians to carry cash, especially during elections. It has kept this reputation even though many large transactions in the country are now carried out using technology, rather than cash. I7D世界播

在尼日利亚,这个包还与腐败政客用来携带现金有关,特别是在选举期间。尽管中国的许多大型交易现在都是使用技术而不是现金进行的,但它仍然保持了这一声誉。I7D世界播


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But Ghana Must Go bags are still very popular across West Africa and now come in different sizes and colours, from a yellow tree-patterned one to an ugly but durable grey favoured by traders of second-hand shoes. I7D世界播

但加纳的必争之路手袋在西非仍然很受欢迎,现在有不同的尺寸和颜色,从黄色的树纹手袋到二手鞋商人喜欢的丑陋但耐用的灰色手袋。I7D世界播


They are still cheap and have that seemingly magical ability to manufacture an extra inch of space even when they appear to be completely full. I7D世界播

它们仍然很便宜,而且有一种看似神奇的能力,即使它们看起来完全装满了,也能制造出额外的一英寸空间。I7D世界播


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Obinna however wonders if it is time to drop the Ghana Must Go moniker. I7D世界播

然而,奥宾纳想知道是不是时候放弃加纳的绰号了。I7D世界播


"I believe Ghana Must Go can be categorized as a derogatory slur which of course transcends Ghanaian nationals. I7D世界播

“我认为加纳必须离开可以被归类为一种贬损,这当然超越了加纳国民的范畴。”I7D世界播


"This begs to ask the question, should the name be changed, or the bags discontinued?" he asked. I7D世界播

“这让人不禁要问,是应该改名呢,还是应该停产这些包包呢?”他问。I7D世界播


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