王室如何给戴安娜王妃一个强有力的“复仇穿衣”时刻

2020-11-26 00:06

How The Crown gave Princess Diana a powerful 'revenge dressing' moment SzB世界播

王室如何给戴安娜王妃一个强有力的“复仇穿衣”时刻SzB世界播


Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’ made fashion history when she wore it in July 1994 on the evening that Prince Charles confessed his infidelity to the world. SzB世界播

1994年7月查尔斯王子向世界承认自己不忠的当晚,戴安娜王妃穿着这件“复仇礼服”创造了时尚史。SzB世界播


The LBD, by little-known Greek designer Christina Stambolian, was a devastating display of ‘look what you’re missing’ chic and a statement of freedom and independence. Black and revealing, the dress defied all the codes of royal dressing which dictated that black should only be worn when in mourning and that outfits should be demure above all else. SzB世界播

LBD是由鲜为人知的希腊设计师克里斯蒂娜·斯坦博利安(Christina Stambolian)设计的,它毁灭性地展示了“看看你错过了什么”的别致,也是自由和独立的宣言。这件礼服黑色而暴露,违反了所有王室着装规范,这些规范规定,只有在哀悼的时候才能穿黑色,服装应该比其他一切都端庄。SzB世界播


This moment will likely appear in season five of The Crown, in which Elizabeth Debicki will take overthe role of Diana from Emma Corrin whose performance in season four has won her plaudits for her ‘Bambi meets Machiavelli’ depiction. SzB世界播

这一时刻很可能会出现在第五季中,伊丽莎白·德比基将接替艾玛·科林扮演戴安娜的角色。艾玛·科林在第四季中的表演为她赢得了喝彩,因为她在《斑比遇见马基雅维利》中的刻画为她赢得了喝彩。SzB世界播


But anyone who has reached the end of the current run of episodesmight have noticed a wink tothe fact that Diana was on the cusp of morphing from Dynasty Di into Revenge Diana in 1990, when the season ends. SzB世界播

但是,任何已经到了目前这一系列剧集的结尾的人,可能都已经注意到了一个眨眼的事实,那就是戴安娜在1990年本季结束时即将从戴安娜王朝蜕变为复仇戴安娜。SzB世界播


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Emma Corrin in a revenge dress in season four of The Crown; Diana in her famous Christina Stambolian LBD at the Serpentine Gallery in June 1994 - Netflix/ Getty SzB世界播

艾玛·科林(Emma Corin)在《王冠》第四季中穿着复仇连衣裙;1994年6月,戴安娜(Diana)在蛇形画廊(SerPentine Gallery)穿着著名的克里斯蒂娜·斯坦博利(Christina Stambolian)LBD-奈飞/盖蒂SzB世界播


After a heart-to-heart with Prince Philip, Diana changes from a simple white jumper and jeans into a fabulously sleek blazer dress for the family Christmas photo. Descending the stairs at Sandringham, she looks bold, empowered and completely different from the Queen, Anne, Margaret et al in their flouncy, possibly even frumpy, festive outfits. SzB世界播

在与菲利普亲王谈心后,戴安娜从一件简单的白色套头衫和牛仔裤变成了一件非常光滑的西装,用于拍摄全家圣诞合影。走下桑德灵厄姆的楼梯,她看起来大胆、有力量,穿着蓬松、甚至可能是过时的节日服装,与女王、安妮、玛格丽特等人完全不同。SzB世界播


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Emma Corrin as Diana in The Crown SzB世界播

艾玛·科林饰演王冠上的戴安娜SzB世界播


‘I loved that they dressed Emma Corrin in the halter-neck tuxedo dress for the last episode,’ says Eloise Moran, who has introduced the Instagram generation to Diana’s revenge dressing ways via her account @ladydirevengelooks, which has nearly 75K followers. SzB世界播

埃洛伊丝·莫兰(Eloise Moran)在Instagram上向Instagram一代人介绍了戴安娜的复仇着装,她的账号@ladydirevenglooks拥有近75K粉丝。她说:“我喜欢上一集艾玛·科林(Emma Corin)穿着吊带燕尾服的样子。”SzB世界播


‘Not only was it the sexiest dress we'd seen her in through the whole season, but it reminded me of the green velvet Catherine Walker dress Diana wore in her '90s Vanity Fair shoot, shot by Mario Testino. In the editorial, "There is a kind of serenity. She's found herself--the way she wants to live."’ SzB世界播

“这不仅是我们整季看到她穿的最性感的连衣裙,还让我想起了上世纪90年代戴安娜在拍摄《名利场》时穿的绿色天鹅绒连衣裙,由马里奥·特斯蒂诺(Mario Testino)拍摄。社论中写道:”有一种宁静。她找到了自己--她想要的生活方式。“。SzB世界播


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Diana's velvet Catherine Walker tuxedo dress - Getty SzB世界播

戴安娜的天鹅绒凯瑟琳·沃克燕尾服-盖蒂SzB世界播


The Walker design which Moran refers to has never been seen on Diana in public. It was sold as part of the Christie’s auction of her royal wardrobe in 1997, at which 79 gowns were sold for an average of $41,000 each.The was reportedlyworn by the Princess for private dinners -one of those could easily have been Christmas Eve,the original was, after all, a festive shade of christmas treegreen. SzB世界播

莫兰提到的沃克设计从未在公开场合出现在戴安娜身上。1997年,这件礼服作为佳士得王室衣柜拍卖会的一部分售出,当时有79件礼服以平均每件4.1万美元的价格售出。据报道,这件礼服是王妃参加三次私人晚宴时穿的--其中一件很容易就是平安夜,毕竟,最初的礼服是喜庆的绿色圣诞树色调。SzB世界播


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The Royal family at Christmas in The Crown's final episode - Netflix SzB世界播

《王冠》最后一集中的圣诞节王室成员--NetflixSzB世界播


‘I think the fact they used this dress to wrap up the season, and the end of the '80s decade, was very poignant,’ adds Moran. ‘It got me excited for the next season - the revenge season, the only season that matters in my book!It was the "jeez, FINALLY!" moment-I just wish we'd seen them build to that with a little more sartorial nuance.’ SzB世界播

莫兰补充说:“我觉得他们用这条裙子来结束这一季,以及上世纪80年代末的时候,非常令人心酸。这让我对下一季感到兴奋--复仇季,这是我书中唯一重要的一季!那是‘天哪,终于!’的时刻--我只是希望我们能看到他们在服装上有更多的细微差别。”SzB世界播


Diana fans who had hoped for a deep dive into every twist and turn of the Princess’s style evolution have beenleft disappointed by The Crown’s depiction which left out many highlights, including theforays she made intomenswear-inspired tailoring when she grew tired of ballgowns and the offbeat polo looks she tried later in the ‘80s, like jeans tucked into cowboy boots worn with blazers and sweatshirts or novelty knitwear with pleated skirts. SzB世界播

戴安娜王妃的粉丝们曾希望深入了解王妃风格演变的每一个曲折和转折,但王室的描绘遗漏了许多亮点,包括当她厌倦了舞会礼服时,她开始尝试以男装为灵感的裁剪,以及她在20世纪80年代末尝试的不同寻常的马球造型,比如牛仔裤塞进牛仔靴里,配上西装和运动衫,或者新奇的针织衫配褶裙。戴安娜王妃的粉丝们对此感到失望。SzB世界播


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Diana's love of tailoring isn't shown in The Crown - Hulton SzB世界播

戴安娜对裁缝的热爱并没有在皇冠休尔顿上表现出来SzB世界播


‘One of my biggest issues of this season was that they failed to show some of Diana's most interesting '80s looks,’ Moran confirms. ‘I felt the show portrayed her as overly fragile; I didn't get a sense that her character developed so much until the very last episode, and by that point it felt as though lots of bits of the plot were missing. SzB世界播

莫兰证实:“这一季我最大的问题之一是,他们没有展现出戴安娜80年代最有趣的一些造型。我觉得这部剧把她描绘得过于脆弱;直到最后一集,我才感觉到她的角色有了这么大的发展,到那时,我觉得似乎缺少了很多情节。”SzB世界播


'This wasn't helped by the clothes they dressed Emma Corrin in; some of my favorite looks were earlier on in the season, like the yellow dungarees, pink sweater inspired by the wool knit that Diana bought at a shop called Inca in Belgravia and the white dress she wore in Australia, because it totally resembled her innocence. In the latter part of the '80s, I think she started to come into her own - especially after she became a mother. As she began to rebel against Charles and the royal family, I wish they would have selected edgier, more powerful looks to represent this shift in her. I would have loved to have seen some androgynous looks, for example.’ SzB世界播

“他们给艾玛·科林穿的衣服也帮不上忙;我最喜欢的一些造型是在这一季早些时候出现的,比如黄色工装裤、粉色毛衣,灵感来自戴安娜在贝尔格莱维亚一家名为印加的商店买的羊毛衫,以及她在澳大利亚穿的白色连衣裙,因为这完全像是她的纯真。”在80年代后期,我认为她开始有了自己的风格--特别是在她成为一名母亲之后。当她开始反抗查尔斯和王室时,我希望他们能选择更前卫、更有力的形象来代表她的这种转变。举个例子,我很想看到一些雌雄同体的表情。SzB世界播


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Princess Diana in jeans and cowboy boots at Guards Polo Club in 1988 - Tim Graham SzB世界播

1988年,戴安娜王妃在卫兵马球俱乐部穿着牛仔裤和牛仔靴-蒂姆·格雷厄姆(Tim Graham)SzB世界播


If Diana’s most famous revenge dress was all about reclaiming the narrative and stealing front pages from the husband who had been unfaithful to her, then the one seen in The Crown carries a subtler, foreshadowing message. SzB世界播

如果说戴安娜最著名的复仇礼服完全是为了重新找回故事情节,并从对她不忠的丈夫那里窃取头版头条,那么在《王冠》中看到的那件礼服则传达了一个更微妙、更有寓意的信息。SzB世界播


It shows Diana using fashion as armour - those big, sharp lapels are like a shield, the silhouette is cinched and sleek - and finally setting herself apart. For most of the season, she has tried - at least nominally - to fit in with the family via floral dresses and appropriate skirt suits. Now she couldn’t look more different to them. She’s emboldened and ready for all that the early ‘90s have to throw at her - bring on season five. SzB世界播

它展示了戴安娜用时尚作为盔甲--那些又大又尖的翻领就像盾牌,轮廓紧凑而流畅--最终让自己脱颖而出。在这一季的大部分时间里,她一直试图--至少在名义上--通过花朵连衣裙和合适的裙子套装来融入家庭。现在,在他们眼里,她看起来完全不同了。她胆子很大,准备好迎接90年代初的一切--让第五季开播吧。SzB世界播

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