2020-11-26 00:06

How The Crown gave Princess Diana a powerful 'revenge dressing' moment SzB世界播


Princess Diana’s ‘revenge dress’ made fashion history when she wore it in July 1994 on the evening that Prince Charles confessed his infidelity to the world. SzB世界播


The LBD, by little-known Greek designer Christina Stambolian, was a devastating display of ‘look what you’re missing’ chic and a statement of freedom and independence. Black and revealing, the dress defied all the codes of royal dressing which dictated that black should only be worn when in mourning and that outfits should be demure above all else. SzB世界播

LBD是由鲜为人知的希腊设计师克里斯蒂娜·斯坦博利安(Christina Stambolian)设计的,它毁灭性地展示了“看看你错过了什么”的别致,也是自由和独立的宣言。这件礼服黑色而暴露,违反了所有王室着装规范,这些规范规定,只有在哀悼的时候才能穿黑色,服装应该比其他一切都端庄。SzB世界播

This moment will likely appear in season five of The Crown, in which Elizabeth Debicki will take overthe role of Diana from Emma Corrin whose performance in season four has won her plaudits for her ‘Bambi meets Machiavelli’ depiction. SzB世界播


But anyone who has reached the end of the current run of episodesmight have noticed a wink tothe fact that Diana was on the cusp of morphing from Dynasty Di into Revenge Diana in 1990, when the season ends. SzB世界播



Emma Corrin in a revenge dress in season four of The Crown; Diana in her famous Christina Stambolian LBD at the Serpentine Gallery in June 1994 - Netflix/ Getty SzB世界播

艾玛·科林(Emma Corin)在《王冠》第四季中穿着复仇连衣裙;1994年6月,戴安娜(Diana)在蛇形画廊(SerPentine Gallery)穿着著名的克里斯蒂娜·斯坦博利(Christina Stambolian)LBD-奈飞/盖蒂SzB世界播

After a heart-to-heart with Prince Philip, Diana changes from a simple white jumper and jeans into a fabulously sleek blazer dress for the family Christmas photo. Descending the stairs at Sandringham, she looks bold, empowered and completely different from the Queen, Anne, Margaret et al in their flouncy, possibly even frumpy, festive outfits. SzB世界播



Emma Corrin as Diana in The Crown SzB世界播


‘I loved that they dressed Emma Corrin in the halter-neck tuxedo dress for the last episode,’ says Eloise Moran, who has introduced the Instagram generation to Diana’s revenge dressing ways via her account @ladydirevengelooks, which has nearly 75K followers. SzB世界播

埃洛伊丝·莫兰(Eloise Moran)在Instagram上向Instagram一代人介绍了戴安娜的复仇着装,她的账号@ladydirevenglooks拥有近75K粉丝。她说:“我喜欢上一集艾玛·科林(Emma Corin)穿着吊带燕尾服的样子。”SzB世界播

‘Not only was it the sexiest dress we'd seen her in through the whole season, but it reminded me of the green velvet Catherine Walker dress Diana wore in her '90s Vanity Fair shoot, shot by Mario Testino. In the editorial, "There is a kind of serenity. She's found herself--the way she wants to live."’ SzB世界播

“这不仅是我们整季看到她穿的最性感的连衣裙,还让我想起了上世纪90年代戴安娜在拍摄《名利场》时穿的绿色天鹅绒连衣裙,由马里奥·特斯蒂诺(Mario Testino)拍摄。社论中写道:”有一种宁静。她找到了自己--她想要的生活方式。“。SzB世界播


Diana's velvet Catherine Walker tuxedo dress - Getty SzB世界播


The Walker design which Moran refers to has never been seen on Diana in public. It was sold as part of the Christie’s auction of her royal wardrobe in 1997, at which 79 gowns were sold for an average of $41,000 each.The was reportedlyworn by the Princess for private dinners -one of those could easily have been Christmas Eve,the original was, after all, a festive shade of christmas treegreen. SzB世界播



The Royal family at Christmas in The Crown's final episode - Netflix SzB世界播


‘I think the fact they used this dress to wrap up the season, and the end of the '80s decade, was very poignant,’ adds Moran. ‘It got me excited for the next season - the revenge season, the only season that matters in my book!It was the "jeez, FINALLY!" moment-I just wish we'd seen them build to that with a little more sartorial nuance.’ SzB世界播


Diana fans who had hoped for a deep dive into every twist and turn of the Princess’s style evolution have beenleft disappointed by The Crown’s depiction which left out many highlights, including theforays she made intomenswear-inspired tailoring when she grew tired of ballgowns and the offbeat polo looks she tried later in the ‘80s, like jeans tucked into cowboy boots worn with blazers and sweatshirts or novelty knitwear with pleated skirts. SzB世界播



Diana's love of tailoring isn't shown in The Crown - Hulton SzB世界播


‘One of my biggest issues of this season was that they failed to show some of Diana's most interesting '80s looks,’ Moran confirms. ‘I felt the show portrayed her as overly fragile; I didn't get a sense that her character developed so much until the very last episode, and by that point it felt as though lots of bits of the plot were missing. SzB世界播


'This wasn't helped by the clothes they dressed Emma Corrin in; some of my favorite looks were earlier on in the season, like the yellow dungarees, pink sweater inspired by the wool knit that Diana bought at a shop called Inca in Belgravia and the white dress she wore in Australia, because it totally resembled her innocence. In the latter part of the '80s, I think she started to come into her own - especially after she became a mother. As she began to rebel against Charles and the royal family, I wish they would have selected edgier, more powerful looks to represent this shift in her. I would have loved to have seen some androgynous looks, for example.’ SzB世界播



Princess Diana in jeans and cowboy boots at Guards Polo Club in 1988 - Tim Graham SzB世界播

1988年,戴安娜王妃在卫兵马球俱乐部穿着牛仔裤和牛仔靴-蒂姆·格雷厄姆(Tim Graham)SzB世界播

If Diana’s most famous revenge dress was all about reclaiming the narrative and stealing front pages from the husband who had been unfaithful to her, then the one seen in The Crown carries a subtler, foreshadowing message. SzB世界播


It shows Diana using fashion as armour - those big, sharp lapels are like a shield, the silhouette is cinched and sleek - and finally setting herself apart. For most of the season, she has tried - at least nominally - to fit in with the family via floral dresses and appropriate skirt suits. Now she couldn’t look more different to them. She’s emboldened and ready for all that the early ‘90s have to throw at her - bring on season five. SzB世界播


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