一些旧的东西,一些新的东西:古驰复兴经典以重获优势

2020-11-19 20:05

Something old, something new: Gucci revives classics to regain edge u24世界播

一些旧的东西,一些新的东西:古驰复兴经典以重获优势u24世界播


MILAN (Reuters) - Gucci is revisiting 1960s handbags and other classics in its latest collection, mixing them with up-to-the-minute sneakers and logoed skateboards, as it seeks to reach a wider audience and reverse a fall in sales after years of stellar growth. u24世界播

米兰(路透社)-古驰(Gucci)在其最新系列中重新审视了20世纪60年代的手袋和其他经典款式,将它们与最新的运动鞋和带有标识的滑板混合在一起,以期接触到更广泛的受众,并扭转多年高速增长后销售额下降的局面。u24世界播


With traditional fashion shows cancelled because of the coronavirus pandemic, designer Alessandro Michele teamed up with U.S. director Gus Van Sant to shoot a seven-part miniseries to show off his largely seasonless, gender-neutral creations. u24世界播

由于冠状病毒的流行,传统时装秀被取消,设计师亚历山德罗·米歇尔(Alessandro Michele)与美国导演格斯·范·桑特(Gus Van Sant)合作拍摄了一部七集的迷你剧,以展示他基本上没有季节性的、中性的作品。u24世界播


Gucci is showing the videos as a virtual fashion film festival, with a new instalment released daily over the course of this week. u24世界播

古驰(Gucci)将这些视频作为虚拟时尚电影节放映,本周每天都会发布一部新的视频。u24世界播


The films, which have a dream-like, retro quality with vintage cars and juke-boxes, follow a woman, played by Italian actress Silvia Calderoni, as she goes about her daily routine in Rome. u24世界播

这部电影有着梦幻般的复古品质,拥有老爷车和自动点唱机,讲述了意大利女演员西尔维娅·卡尔德罗尼(Silvia Calderoni)饰演的一个女人在罗马的日常生活。u24世界播


They feature cameo appearances by celebrities close to the fashion house such as singers Billie Eilish and Harry Styles - all wearing Gucci creations, including re-editions of Michele's designs from his first 2015 collection. u24世界播

与这家时尚品牌关系密切的名人客串亮相,比如歌手比莉·艾利什(Billie Eilish)和哈里·斯泰尔斯(Harry Styles)--他们都穿着古驰(Gucci)的服装,包括米歇尔2015年第一个系列的翻版设计。u24世界播


The former One Direction singer has also created a buzz in the fashion world by appearing on the cover of a December edition of Vogue, clad in a Gucci ball gown. u24世界播

这位前单向乐队(One Direction)歌手还身着古驰(Gucci)舞会礼服登上了12月版的《Vogue》封面,在时尚界引起了轰动。u24世界播


GUCCI WATERSHED u24世界播

古驰分水岭。u24世界播


Behind the scenes, luxury industry watchers say this is a watershed moment for Gucci, the business that drives the bulk of revenue and profits at parent Kering, but which has been losing steam over the past year. u24世界播

在幕后,奢侈品行业观察人士表示,这是古驰(Gucci)的分水岭时刻,母公司开云集团(Kering)的大部分收入和利润来自古驰,但在过去一年里,古驰一直在失去动力。u24世界播


After a nearly fourfold increase in earnings since Michele took the creative helm, Gucci's revenues have slowed down, lagging rivals like LVMH's Louis Vuitton and Hermes. Gucci was the only fashion brand in Kering's stable to suffer a sales decline in the third quarter. [nL8N2HD78N] u24世界播

自从米歇尔执掌创意之舵以来,古驰的收入增长了近四倍,但其收入已经放缓,落后于路易威登(LVMH)的路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和爱马仕(Hermes)等竞争对手。古驰是开云集团中唯一在第三季度销售额下滑的时尚品牌。[nL8N2HD78N]。u24世界播


Much of the brand's success up until recently relied on well-heeled, young Chinese shoppers travelling to Europe's fashion capitals and snapping up Michele's quirky, flamboyant designs. u24世界播

直到最近,该品牌的成功在很大程度上依赖于富裕的年轻中国购物者前往欧洲时尚之都,抢购米歇尔古怪而华丽的设计。u24世界播


But with international tourism almost frozen due to the pandemic, Gucci can no longer rely on foreign visitors coming to Europe's shopping streets to boost sales. u24世界播

但由于疫情导致国际旅游业几乎停滞不前,古驰不能再依赖外国游客来到欧洲的购物街来促进销售。u24世界播


Consultancy Bain, which produces closely-followed forecasts for the luxury industry, said on Wednesday the share of high-end goods purchases by local clients is expected to rise to 80-85% of the total this year from 60% in 2019. Local buyers are still set to account for 65-70% of luxury shopping in 2025. u24世界播

贝恩咨询公司(Bain)周三表示,当地客户购买高端商品的份额预计将从2019年的60%上升到今年的80%-85%。贝恩咨询公司对奢侈品行业的预测受到密切关注。到2025年,当地买家仍将占奢侈品购物的65%-70%。u24世界播


Gucci is rejigging its marketing and product line-up to refocus the label and boost its appeal among local and older shoppers in Europe and the United States. The fashion house has, for example, produced "re-edited" versions of its classic handbags such as the 1,800-euro Jackie 1961. u24世界播

古驰正在调整其营销和产品线,以重新聚焦该品牌,并提高其在欧洲和美国当地和老年购物者中的吸引力。例如,这家时尚品牌已经为其经典手袋生产了“重新编辑”的版本,比如售价1800欧元的成龙1961(Jackie 1961)手袋。u24世界播


People born from 1981 onwards -- Millennials and Generation Z buyers -- now make up almost 60% of luxury purchases, Bain said, but brands cannot afford to neglect the remaining 40%. u24世界播

贝恩说,1981年以后出生的人--千禧一代和Z世代买家--现在占奢侈品购买量的近60%,但品牌不能忽视剩下的40%。u24世界播


That is why on top of tweaking their ranges to include less trend-driven items, most luxury labels are directing their customer service to establish close contact with clients who are not able to go to the stores themselves. u24世界播

这就是为什么大多数奢侈品牌除了调整自己的产品范围,以包括不那么受潮流驱动的商品外,还指示他们的客户服务与那些无法亲自去商店的客户建立密切联系。u24世界播


Gucci is still doing well on many fronts, including an operating margin of 30% in the first half of 2020, down from a record high of 40.6% a year earlier but still far exceeding that of many competitors. u24世界播

古驰在很多方面仍然表现良好,包括2020年上半年的营业利润率为30%,低于一年前创纪录的40.6%,但仍远远超过许多竞争对手。u24世界播


But analysts say there are some signs of fatigue. u24世界播

但分析人士表示,有一些疲惫的迹象。u24世界播


Luca Solca of Bernstein said Gucci's social media traction, while still high, is diminishing. It also seems to have more trouble selling excess inventory at full price. u24世界播

伯恩斯坦公司(Bernstein)的卢卡·索尔卡(Luca Solca)表示,古驰在社交媒体上的吸引力虽然仍然很高,但正在减弱。它似乎也更难全价出售过剩库存。u24世界播


"There is no red flag at Gucci, but we see an opportunity to act now in order to avoid bigger issues down the road," said Solca in a note. u24世界播

索尔卡在一份报告中表示:“古驰没有危险信号,但我们看到了现在采取行动的机会,以避免未来出现更大的问题。”u24世界播

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